The
Tall Slender Man needs a style that (A) will not look like "all hat"
above his slender face, and (B) will break up the long lines of face and
figure. He needs a tapered crown and not too high crown.
If very tall,
avoid extreme narrow brim. If medium height, he can wear the narrowest.
And tell him to wear it with a side tilt. In clothing. Avoid vertical
stripes and the long pointed collar.
The low tapered
crown. Either center crease or telescope, is the thing for this type.
A contrast band will also help to break up the vertical lines. He is also
a good type for the low crown Homburg
For the Big Fellow
Low crown,
extreme narrow brim, extreme tapered crown, loud checks, always wrong.
The tall 200 pounder who stands out in a crowd needs a hat big enough
to balance his face and his figure. Ask yourself: "Is he a fashion
type of a folksy type?" Base you hat decision on that.
Right for the fashion type: CROWN is more important that
brim-width for this type. He can wear a moderately narrow brim if combined
with a fairly full crown. He should be cautioned to snap his brim full
width from side to side. The big man can look fashionable in the full
crowed HOMBURG or semi-Homburg (turned-uo-brim). The brim should be flat-set
on the sides -not too sharp a roll.
Right for the folksy type: If the big man has no wish to
look modern in fashion, you can give him as big a brim as he wants. The
semi-western type, with narrow band and fairly wide brim, is usually becoming.
Fuller crown, brim not too narrow. Snap brim full across. A good type
for the Homburg of Semi-Homberg. He can always wear the Western types.
For the Short Slender Man
The
small-statured man is often a big fellow mentally, and would like his
importance to be visible. First, the short man should ALWAYS WEAR A HAT
WHEN OUT OR DOORS. Since he takes on added stature every time he puts
on the right hat, it's silly for this type of man to go hatless.
Right for the Short Man:
Best Type of hat for this man is the turned-up brim, with tapered crown.
It makes him look taller, and reduces the "little boy" look.
If he wants a snap brim, the narrow brims and tapered crowns and a lucky
break for him. Avoid, however the extremely low crown and extremely narrow
brim; he wants to look like a man. The extreme low pork pie crown is risky,
for some reason. Snap brim should be fairly flat set at front - a deep
snap over the eyes will submerge him. Crown must be tapered -a high crown
is the worst thing you can put on him. Contrast band is better than matched,
because the contrast makes the crown look less high above his face.
He needs
a well-tapered crown, but not so low as to make him look like a :little
boy". A turned up brim will add to his look of height and importance.
For the Short Plump Man
This
type should never go hatless - a hat, like elevator heels, can add to
his stature. Perhaps the most mis-fitted man, in this day of small, taper
crown fashion is the short plump fellow. The low taper crown is good fashion
and good looks for a large percentage of customers. But it's wrong for
him. It makes his face look fuller and his body look shorter. The best
rule for this man is moderation at all points -no extremes.
Right for this type:
This man can wear the modern narrower brim (through 1 5/8", rather
than the extreme 1 1/2" or 1 3/8" if the crown if fairly full.
Such a hat should be carried in every stock today. But if the store carries
only the extreme taper in the narrow brim, it is better to sell him a
staple rather than a high fashion hat that looks silly.
Most
becoming for this type is the semi-Homburg the hat with turned up brim
since it tends to add height. It should be fairly flatset, however; avoid
the high roll on the sides. In a snap brim, suggest that he wear it moderately
well back on the head and tilted to the side. If pulled down over the
nose, it shortens the face and squats down the figure. Avoid brims with
sharp roll! No extremes for this man. Moderate crown and brim. And snap
the brim full width.
For the man with large ears
Crown -avoid
extreme tapers
Brim -medium width snapped full
Avoid -off the face styles. Hat should be worn high on the brow
Top heavy face
Crown -Tapered
with front pinch
Brim -Medium width with narrow snap
Avoid -High full crowns, flat snapped brim
Pear Shaped Face
Crown -Full
center crease of Homburg
Brim -Wide with full snap
Avoid -Tapered crown narrow brim
Receding Chin
Crown -Lower
style with good taper
Brim -Narrow to medium with medium curl
Avoid -High full crown. Hat should be worn with a slight title and fairly
level.
Prominent Jaw
Crown -Slight
taper center creases or wide front pinches
Brim -Medium width with full snap
Avoid -Too narrow a brim
Long Nose
Crown -Medium
height not too tappered
Brim -Should be wide enough to extend beyond tip of nose
The 
