Heritage Fabrics 101: Harris Tweed
Shop Genuine Harris Tweed Flat Caps
Hailing from the Outer Hebrides Isles off the coast of Scotland, Harris Tweed is the only fabric in the world governed by its very own Act of Parliament and still traditionally handcrafted in commercial quantities. In accordance with the Harris Tweed Act of 1909, all Harris Tweed cloth must be “Handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.” The Harris Tweed Act of 1993 replaced the original Harris Tweed Association with the Harris Tweed Authority (HTA) and tasked it with safeguarding the authenticity and name of Harris Tweed – legally or otherwise.
Known as Clo Mor in Gaelic meaning “The Big Cloth,” the crafting of Harris Tweed is a long and labor-intensive process employing 220 weavers and 160 related positions (per the HTA website, December 2024). First, island communities come together to round up and shear local sheep in early summer. The resulting pure virgin wool is then blended at local mills with pure virgin wool from the Scottish mainland. This is then dyed in the wool, i.e., dyed prior to being spun, allowing different shades to be blended and carded together to achieve each ideal yarn hue. Next, these yarns are spun onto bobbins and readied for the loom. Before the yarn is delivered to the homes of weavers, however, it must first be warped – a highly skilled process whereby thousands of warp (vertical) threads are wound onto large beams in a very specific order. These are then delivered to weavers along with yarn for the weft (horizontal left-to-right threads).
Per the Harris Tweed Act, all Harris Tweed cloth is traditionally handwoven on a treadle loom (i.e., foot or pedal loom) at an islander’s home, not in mills. The weaving process is a highly skilled endeavor – an art form that is taught from generation to generation and takes years to perfect. Once woven, the cloth then returns to the mills and is finished – a process that involves inspection, correction of any flaws, washing, steaming, pressing, and cropping. Finally, each cloth is examined by the independent Harris Tweed Authority inspector and authenticated with the Orb certification mark if all standards are found to have been met. Only fabrics marked with this certification are officially deemed Harris Tweed®.
The resulting fabric – available in hundreds of patterns created over the centuries – is one steeped in heritage and tradition whilst being renowned for its superior quality, performance, and sustainability. Harris Tweed is handwoven using only 100% Scottish pure virgin wool, is breathable and wind, water, and flame resistant – all without any additional finishes. It is also 100% naturally renewable, biodegradable, and recyclable. Moreover, this handwoven artisanal fabric supports specialist weaving and textile production skills across the remote and rural Outer Hebrides isles communities, generating sustainable employment opportunities for generations to come.
For more information on Harris Tweed, visit the official Harris Tweed website: https://www.harristweed.org/
By: G. Realpe, Copywriter