The tall, slender man needs a style that (A) will not look like "all hat" above his slender face, and (B) will break up the long lines of face and figure. He needs a tapered crown and not too high crown.
If very tall, avoid extreme narrow brim. If medium height, he can wear the narrowest. And tell him to wear it with a side tilt. In clothing. Avoid vertical stripes and the long pointed collar.
The low tapered crown. Either center crease or telescope, is the thing for this type. A contrast band will also help to break up the vertical lines. He is also a good type for the low crown Homburg.
Low crown, extreme narrow brim, extreme tapered crown, loud checks, always wrong. The tall 200-pounder who stands out in a crowd needs a hat big enough to balance his face and his figure. Ask yourself: "Is he a dress hat type or the more laid back casual hat type?" Base you hat decision on that.
CROWN is more important that brim-width for this type. He can wear a moderately narrow brim if combined with a fairly full crown. He should be cautioned to snap his brim full width from side to side. The big man can look fashionable in the full crowed HOMBURG or semi-Homburg (turned-up-brim). The brim should be flat-set on the sides -not too sharp a roll.
If the big man has no wish to look modern in fashion, you can give him as big a brim as he wants. The semi-western type, with narrow band and fairly wide brim, is usually becoming. Fuller crown, brim not too narrow. Snap brim full across. A good type for the Homburg of Semi-Homburg. He can always wear the Western types.
The small-statured man is often a big fellow mentally, and would like his importance to be visible. First, the short man should ALWAYS WEAR A HAT WHEN OUTDOORS. Since he takes on added stature every time he puts on the right hat, it's silly for this type of man to go hatless.
The best type of hat for this man is the turned-up brim, with tapered crown. It makes him look taller, and reduces the "little boy" look. If he wants a snap brim, the narrow brims and tapered crowns and a lucky break for him. Avoid, however the extremely low crown and extremely narrow brim; he wants to look like a man. The extreme low pork pie crown is risky, for some reason. Snap brim should be fairly flat set at front - a deep snap over the eyes will submerge him. Crown must be tapered -a high crown is the worst thing you can put on him. Contrast band is better than matched, because the contrast makes the crown look less high above his face.
He needs a well-tapered crown, but not so low as to make him look like a "little boy". A turned up brim will add to his look of height and importance.
This type should never go hat-less - a hat, like elevator heels, can add to his stature. Perhaps the most misfitted man, in this day of small, taper crown fashion is the short plump fellow. The low taper crown is good fashion and good looks for a large percentage of customers. But it's wrong for him. It makes his face look fuller and h is body look shorter. The best rule for this man is moderation at all points -no extremes.
This man can wear the modern stingy brim hat (through 1 5/8", rather than the extreme 1 1/2" or 1 3/8" if the crown if fairly full). Such a hat should be carried in every stock today. But if the store carries only the extreme taper in the narrow brim, it is better to sell him a staple rather than a high fashion hat that looks silly.
Most becoming for this type is the semi-Homburg the hat with turned up brim since it tends to add height. It should be fairly flat set, however; avoid the high roll on the sides. In a snap brim, suggest that he wear it moderately well back on the head and tilted to the side. If pulled down over the nose, it shortens the face and squats down the figure. Avoid brims with sharp roll! No extremes for this man. Moderate crown and brim. And snap the brim full width.