Anatomy of a Hat

CROWN
A hat’s crown is the part of the hat which physically envelopes one’s head. Different hat styles are typically characterized in large part by their crown shape.

For example, the hat pictured may be described more generally as a Fedora Hat and more specifically as a Fedora Hat with a Pinch-style crown. A classic Pinch Crown features a center dent along its front to back axis with “pinches” or indentations at either side of its front. Other classic Crown shapes for brimmed hat styles include:

• Tear Drop, Teardrop, or C-Crown: Characterized by their shape which resembles a teardrop or letter “C” tapered and pinched off at the front when the hat is viewed on its side. This crown is round at the back and gently tapers off to a point at the front, typically with pinches or indentations at either side.
  1. Typical of: Fedora Hats, Western & Cowboy Hats, Outback Hats
  2. Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats C-Crown Crushable Wool Felt Fedora Hat 
• Center Dent: Featuring a single center dent along a hat’s front to back axis.
  1. Typical of: Homburg & Godfather Hats aka “Lobbia-Style” or Lobbia Hats
  2. Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats Homburg Wool Felt Hat
• Diamond: An aptly named Crown style characterized by its diamond shaped indentation when seen from the top. The diamond shape is usually elongated with its front half being longer than the back half while the center of the crown is usually slightly rounded.
  1. Typical of: Fedora Hats
  2. Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats Wool Felt Diamond Crown Fedora Hat
• Round or Open: Characterized by its rounded top and straight sides.
  1. Typical of: Bowler & Derby Hats, Open Crown Hats
  2. Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats English Wool Felt Bowler Hat
• Telescope: This Crown type features a round indentation along its edge which gives it its characteristic “telescope” lens look. Its center may be slightly rounded or flat while its sides will typically be straight.
  1. Typical of: Gambler Hats, Pork Pie Hats
  2. Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats Wool Felt Pork Pie Hat
• Square: This Crown style is set apart by its flat top and straight sides which resemble a square (or sometimes a rectangle, depending on the Crown height) when seen from the front.
  1. Typical of: Classic Boater Hats, Skimmer Hats, Bolero & Gaucho Hats, Classic (non-Flared) Top Hats
  2. Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats Striped Band Wheat Straw Skimmer Hat
• Cattleman: Featuring a deep crease down its center (front to back) flanked by indents on either side.
  1. Typical of: Western & Cowboy Hats
  2. Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats Wool Felt Western Hat
• Gus: Thought to have been derived from the Cattleman Crown, the Gus Crown is taller at its back than its front, with a distinctive crease down its center (front to back) and small pinches to either side at its front.
  1. Typical of: Western & Cowboy Hats
  2. Style Suggestion: SunBody Gus Wide Brim Guatemalan Palm Leaf Straw Hat
• Bell: Yet another well-named Crown style, Bell Crowns resemble a bell shape and are characterized by its rounded top that gently tapers down and out toward the brim.
  1. Typical of: Cloche Hats (Cloche is French for “bell”)
  2. Style Suggestion: Sur La Tete Chloe Wool Felt Cloche Hat 

BRIM
The brim of hat is the part that attaches to the crown and provides 360° coverage for your face, ears, and neck (depending on its length). Similar to Crown styles, a hat’s Brim type is another major contributor to a hat’s overall style and also helps in their categorization. Factors to consider include not only its overall style, but its length and additional features as well.

For example, the hat pictured may be generally described as a Pinch Crown Fedora Hat but even further described as a Pinch Crown Fedora Hat with a classic Snap Brim. The “Snap” Brim designation simply describes the brim’s flexible finish and ability to “snap” up or down per the wearer’s preference. The “classic” designation stems from its 2-inch length which is considered “classic” for most dress hat styles, including Fedora Hats. Typically, Brims less than 2 inches are considered short or “Stingy,” Brims between 2 to 2.5 inches are considered “classic,” and Brims longer than 2.5 inches are considered wide.

Other general Brim styles include:

• Down Brim, Downbrim, or Downturned: Describes a brim angled downward all around.
  • Typical of: Classic Bucket Hats, Cloche Hats, Lampshade Hats, classic Lifeguard Hats
  • Style Suggestion: VHS Cotton Bucket Hat
• Flared: This Brim style usually features “flared” or upturned sides.
  • Typical of: Western & Cowboy Hats
  • Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats Crushable Wool Felt Outback Hat
• Curled or Upturned: Used to describe Brim edges that are either “curled” or upturned all the way around.
  • Typical of: Bowler & Derby Hats, Homburg & Godfather Hats
  • Style Suggestion: Jaxon Hats Homburg Wool Felt Hat
• Flat: Characterized by their flat (usually firm finish) nature
  • Typical of: Bolero & Gaucho Hats, Skimmer Hats
  • Style Suggestion: Made in the USA Classics Wool Felt Bolero Hat
• Floppy: Typically, wider brims designed to have a relaxed, “floppy” appearance.
  • Typical of: Swinger Hats, many women’s Sun Hats
  • Style Suggestion: Sur La Tete Brighton Toyo Straw Sun Hat

Additional Brim features can further describe the Brim style. Using the hat pictured as an example again – the hat is a Pinch Crown Fedora Hat with a classic Snap Underwelt Brim. “Underwelt” refers the to the way its brim’s edge is specifically folded down and under itself before being stitched in place. Other descriptive Brim features include:

• Overwelt: These are the opposite of Underwelt Brims – their edge is folded up and over itself before being stitched in place.
• Binding: Usually referred to as a “Bound Brim,” this term signifies the brim is finished with a stitched fabric “binding” along its edge.
• Raw Edge: This term refers to a Brim which is not folded or bound but is instead cut and sanded for a smooth “unfinished” or “raw” look.  
• Wire-Edge: This feature indicates a Brim is fitted with a flexible wire all around its edge which allows its shape to be adjusted to the wearer’s liking. Wire-Edge Brims are most prevalent in Western & Cowboy Hat styles.

 
HAT BAND
The first most typical Trim or Accent feature of a hat. A Hat Band will circle a hat’s crown, mostly for aesthetic reasons although some Hat Bands may also add function to the hat (e.g. the looped Hat Band of some Booney Hat styles – see VHS Cotton Booney Hat). Popular Hat Band materials/styles include:

• Grosgrain Ribbon: The most widely used material for Hat Bands. Can be narrow or wide, layered, and/or tied into a bow at the side or back. Side bows, if present, are traditionally tied on the left side for classic men’s hat styles and on the right side for classic women’s hat styles.
• Puggaree: Refers to a pleated fabric hat band (typically comprising of 3 pleats but may be more or less). The name derives from the traditional Indian headwrap worn to insulate one from the hot sun which was adapted by the British military during occupation. The headwrap (specifically as adapted by the British) slowly evolved into the Hat Band style we know today. Please note, traditional puggaree headwraps are still in use today.
• Genuine or Faux Leather: A popular material for Western & Cowboy Hat styles as well as Outback Hats and similar styles. May be adorned with conch accents, studs, beads, feathers, decorative stitching, or left smooth and unadorned.
• Beaded: This Hat Band style usually comprises of intricately patterned beads with fabric or leather end ties.
• Self-Fabric: This term is used when the hat’s own material is also used as a Hat Band for a sleek and understated look.

Shop Hat Bands

SIDE FEATHER
Side Feathers are a traditional trim feature for classically-designed men’s dress hat styles including Top Hats, Bowler & Derby Hats, Homburg & Godfather Hats, Fedora Hats, and Pork Pie Hats. Side Feathers and other side trims are traditionally placed on the left side of men’s dress and other hat styles.

Shop Side Feathers

SIDE PIN
Side Pins usually display the hat brand’s logo and, like other side trims, are traditionally placed on the left side for men’s classic hat styles and on the right side for women’s classic styles. Side Pins are usually removeable but may also be fixed in place. Nowadays, many contemporary hat designs are opting to replace traditional Side Pins with either printed or embroidered brand logos.

LINING
Many dress and some Western & Cowboy hat styles feature some sort of fabric lining. This premium detail is not only aesthetically pleasing but also serves to protect the interior of one’s hat from staining over time due to sweat and/or any dirt or natural oils present in hair.

CROWN TIP
Yet another premium detail, Crown Tips are decorative in nature and usually feature the hat brand’s logo either printed or stitched into the hat’s interior (usually on the hat’s lining, if present).

SWEATBAND
Most hat styles – brimmed or non-brimmed – feature some sort of Sweatband. These may be made of different materials depending on the hat style in question, its intended use, or its price point. Sweatbands of all sorts serve one main purpose – to protect the hat’s interior from sweat. In some cases, Sweatbands may also be padded for additional comfort or fitted with size-adjusting features for added functionality.

The hat pictured, for example, features an aesthetically pleasing Genuine Leather Sweatband typical for classic men’s dress hats of premium quality and price.

Other popular Sweatband materials include:

• Cotton Twill or similar Fabric: Cotton and other lightweight fabrics are breathable and comfortable to wear. These are best suited for hat styles intended for everyday or long-term wear as well as those that are more casual in nature.
• Satin or similar Fabric: Satin or similar fabrics such as Silk are soft to the touch and aesthetically pleasing. These are best suited to dressier hat styles.
• Moisture-Wicking or other Performance-style Materials: These Sweatband types are better suited for performance, workwear, or Outdoor Hat styles.
• Faux or Vegan Leather: Similar to Genuine Leather Sweatbands, these are used more for aesthetics than function and are best suited for dressier hat styles.

 

By: G. Realpe, Copywriter
Edited: 01/10/2025